The Old Town Trail

Edinburgh Castle is built on volcanic rock, carved by Ice Age glaciation in such a way as to make its west, north and south aspects so steep as to be virtually impenetrable. Such excellent defensive qualities led rulers, as far back as the 11th century, to build fortresses at its summit and indeed in the long military history of the castle it has never successfully been taken by storm. The Old Town of Edinburgh grew up on the slope to the east of the Castle, the Royal Mile forming the backbone as the major thoroughfare with many narrow closes and wynds leading off to the north and the south. Antique maps of the Old Town show the city resembling the skeleton of a fish with the Castle as the head and the narrow closes and wynds as the ribs.

1. The View up to the Castle from outside the Tourist Information Centre

The starting point for the trail is also the Tourist Information Centre, where you can avail yourself of camera film from the shop.

2. Views from the North Bridge

The present North Bridge was built in 1897, with the highly decorated paintwork and floodlighting arriving in 1990. On the east side of the bridge stands a monument to soldiers of the King's Own Scottish Borderers. An excellent spot for photographing Calton Hill, the eastward view extends all the way to Portobello on the Forth. To the west you can capture Castle rock along with the classical splendour of the art galleries on the Mound.

3. Lady Stair's Close

Turn right and walk up the Royal Mile towards the Castle. When you reach the Lawnmarket, venture down the narrow Lady Stair's Close, one of the passages on your right leads to the Writers' Museum. Through the narrow gap between these distinctive Old Town Buildings, the view stretches out over the New Town to the Firth of Forth. The Writers' Museum, to which entry is free, is devoted to the Scottish writers, Robert Louis Stevenson, Robert Burns and Sir Walter Scott. It houses a selection of manuscripts, portraits and relics. The museum building was built in 1622 and was owned by Elizabeth, the Dowager Countess of Stair in the early 18th Century. Up until 1993 the building was still known as Lady Stair's House.

4. Ramsay Garden from Ramsay Lane

Just before the entrance to the Castle esplanade, turn right down Ramsay Lane for a view of the interior of the engaging Ramsay Garden. This 19th century development was the work of Sir Patrick Geddes a pioneer of conservation and town planning.

5. Views from the Castle Esplanade

Although the most thrilling views over the north of the city can be gained from the highest ramparts within the castle itself, the esplanade still makes an ideal photopoint. To the south, see the Pentland Hills, Arthur's Seat, Edinburgh University and George Heriot's school. The latter, with its distinctive turrets was once used as a hospital for Oliver Cromwell's troops. To the north there is a magnificent panorama over the city, with Edinburgh's famous thoroughfare - Princes Street - in the foreground.

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6. Edinburgh Castle from the Grassmarket

The quickest way down to the Grassmarket is by Castle Wynd, on your right as you leave the Esplanade. The Grassmarket was granted a charter as a marketplace as far back as the 15th century when it still lay outwith the city walls. It later became the city's hanging place with the gallows being finally removed in 1784; the spot is still marked today by railings and a cross set into the cobblestones. Today the Grassmarket is known for its antique and clothes shops and comes alive in the evenings as the young descend on the popular bars and restaurants of the area.

7. Victoria Street

This street was built westwards from George IV Bridge to join West Bow at the angle of the Bow (1835-1840). A must for shoppers with its unique blend of curiosity, craft and antique shops, the architectural style is most photogenic with the arcaded shop fronts surmounted by a pedestrian walkway.

8. View looking down the Royal Mile from St Giles

Although this High Kirk of Edinburgh is still often referred to as a cathedral, it only officially held this title briefly under the reign of Charles I in the 17th century. Looking down the High Street you will see on the right, the now disused Tron Kirk, originally founded 1637, now used as a visitor centre in the summer months. Further down, on the left is John Knox's House which although was possibly not the home of the Scottish religious reformer, nevertheless has connections with his time in Edinburgh.

9. Advocate's Close

Situated opposite St Giles before the City Chambers is Advocate's Close. The close was once home to Sir James Stewart of Goodtrees - Lord Advocate of Scotland between 1692-1709 and 1711-1713 and tenements dating from this time can still be seen. A dramatic view right out to the Firth of Forth can be had from the top of the close.

10. White Horse Close

Arriving at the lower end of the Royal Mile this is another close you should take care not to miss. Formerly the 17th century site of the White Horse Inn - it was once the starting point of coach services between Edinburgh and London. In 1965 it was rebuilt by the Town Council as small flats, though retaining the original style.

11. The Palace of Holyroodhouse with Arthur's Seat

It was in the 16th century that building on the original Holyrood Palace commenced. Various monarchs throughout history have enlarged and modified its structure, most notably Charles II though ironically he never visited the Palace to see the results. Largely neglected by the monarchy in the 18th century, the Palace has since the days of Queen Victoria, served as a regular royal residence. The present Queen visits the palace with other members of the royal family each summer and traditionally holds a garden party in the extensive grounds. At other times the Palace is open to the public with a large selection of rooms open to view, including the notorious chamber where Mary Queen of Scot's Italian secretary David Rizzio was murdered.

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